Setting out...at last!!

Setting off, squeaky clean, freshly shaven and a tidy haircut.

Getting from Healesville to Cooktown was certainly a lot faster than the return trip will be. A bit over an hour to the airport, a four-hour direct flight to Cairns and then a 45-minute flight to Cooktown vs 300 or so days according to my plan.


After touching down in Cooktown the first order of business was to pick up some butane/propane canisters from the camping store, and then find somewhere to stay for a couple of nights. With those things achieved, I strolled along Cooktown's main street to find the BNT starting point.

Whilst I was at it, I thought I'd soak up some of the Cooktown charm.

I was keen on seeing a bit more of Cooktown before setting off on the BNT, so the next morning I hiked the Scenic Rim Trail. A brisk 10 kms or so to blow the dust off my hiking feet and take in some amazing views.

I set out on my first day on the Trail at 5:15am. Sunrise was 6:30am, so I left town under the cloak of darkness. It was relatively cool, with a nice southerly breeze which made for a pleasant start. I was lucky enough that it stayed this way for most of the day - except that " nice southerly breeze" turned into a bastard head-wind, with my pack acting as a sail.

It was on one of my hourly rest stops that a slither of reception allowed a text from my wife to come through. It said "Enjoy your first day!! Remember, it's just a walk in the park."

I'd just passed this sign and took a photo to include it in a witty reply text to Beth, "Annan River National Park in fact", but no reception. I walked on but the opportunity for my witty repartee was missed.

Day one was a big 32.7 kms walking through a number of National Parks and taking in some great scenery.

I arrived at my designated camp spot around 2:30 pm and must say I was pretty stiff and sore! The Lions Den Hotel was certainly a welcome sight and good to get out of the drizzle that had set in for the last 40 minutes. I arranged to stay in a "donga" and ordered an iced water with a beer chaser - lovely!

A donga?  Well, it's a little portable set up with about 5 rooms, and pretty basic - not what first popped into my head when I asked what accommodation was available.

Day two was a 15-km hike through the rainforest to a beautiful creek junction to camp, about 5 km from the tiny town of Rossville. A cute enough town, with no shops to speak of. The most memorable things for me was the massively long entrance, from the welcome sign to the "town" - about 3kms, and being attacked by four pit bull terriers. I'm glad for my trekking poles otherwise I think the dogs would have been well fed that night.

I arrived at camp early allowing me to set up and relax. I chilled out reading a book, had 2-minute noodles for dinner and massaged achy muscles with magic magnesium rub. I didn't sleep that well because of howling wind and rain, and I was worried about a croc sneaking up on me in the middle of the night. I'm sure I'll get used to it.

Day three was a late start as it was still raining. I was waiting for it to stop to pack up but when it didn't I had to bite the bullet. Arrrrghh wet gear - that'll make the pack that bit heavier.

The plan for today was a 16 km hike to Ayton. I was a bit stiff and sore to start off but soon got into a good rhythm. It was a little after lunch when I arrived at the Ayton sports oval. Great camp spot with toilets, shower and shelter.

I hung my wet gear out to dry - however, with humidity around 90% that didn't happen. Maybe next camp spot with a little bit of sun I might have more luck.

I slept so much better last night - I didn't need to worry about the rain, crocs and I wasn't as sore. I must be getting a little fitter - that'll help for the days and months ahead.

Day four (today), I decided to vary from my plan and take things easier with only a short 10(ish)-km jaunt, just shy of the Crebb Track in Bloomfield to a little creek.

I am so loving my adventure so far, as tiring and as sore as I get, I know I'm getting fitter and it is strangely exhilarating just pounding the dirt and taking in some amazing scenery. Everyone I bump into has been super friendly. I better hit the road again and get to my next camp spot, but couldn't pass the opportunity to enjoy the rarity of reception.